Sunday, June 17, 2012

Sugarloaf Mountain/Breakneck Ridge Hike via Wilkinson/Breakneck Bypass/Notch/Brook/Cornish Trails

Hike Date: June 16, 2012

Location: Hudson Highlands State Park, NY

Rating: A++

I had been thinking of hiking up Sugarloaf Mountain (not to be confused with Sugarloaf Hill) for several months now....it was amongst the last few easily accessible by train summit hikes left for me to do in the East Hudson Highlands. One of the factors that kept deterring me was the fact that only two weekend morning trains stop at the Breakneck Ridge station (the 7:50 a.m. and 8:50 a.m. from GCT) and I used to end up feeling too lazy to get to GCT that early.

On June 16, I finally did it, combining it with a hike up Breakneck Ridge via the Breakneck Bypass, and a superb hike it was!  Just when I had begun to think that I had perhaps already visited the most scenic viewpoints in this area, I was proven wrong. And I hope this won't be the last time that happens.

Sugarloaf Mountain turned out to be a worthy neighbor of the more famous Breakneck Ridge, capable of more than holding its own against it. And the viewpoints on Breakneck Ridge that I visited this time were quite amazing too (and different from the ones I had encountered in October last year).

Getting off at the Breakneck Ridge station a few minutes after 10:00 a.m., I headed on the yellow-blazed Wilkinson Memorial Trail which is well-shaded and has a gentle grade in the early stretch.  It starts to climb up via a series of switchbacks.  The trail was rather quiet at this time, the only other hikers I met were heading towards the Breakneck Bypass rather than Sugarloaf.  A short while after the intersection with the red-blazed Breakneck Bypass trail,  the Wilkinson trail descends a little, crosses a dry brook bed, and then continues climbing. About midway to the summit, as I passed by an uprooted tree stump, I head a rustling noise and looking to my left noticed a rattlesnake stretched out on the trunk (the timber rattlesnake is an endangered species in NY). My first instinct was to hurry past, and once I was at a safe distance, I tried to get a good photograph using a telephoto lens but only managed a blur.  I did find it interesting that over the course of several minutes, while I was at this, the snake remained stretched out in around the same position.

A short while after this, the final ascent to the Sugarloaf summit begins, and this stretch is rather steep, though not very difficult. Just before the summit, there is one spot where some clambering is needed, though hand and foot holds are plentiful. Having clambered up, a scenic view of Breakneck Ridge revealed itself to the south, but this was but a precursor to the summit views that were just a 2 minute walk away. Storm King was visible directly opposite, and behind it could be seen the ridgeline of Schunemunk Mountain. Also visible were Newburgh, Bannerman's Island, and a significant stretch of the Hudson.  Looking to the north, it was also possible to make out the outline of the Catskill Escarpment. But to cap it all, the gnarled dead tree trunk, which  is the hallmark of this summit, presented a unique foreground to the gorgeous scenery.

I was lucky that when I arrived at the summit (around 11:15 a.m.), it was desolate. Thus, I had a few minutes of solitude to contemplate the beauty of the moment, before a large group of hikers arrived. While I do not consider myself a solo-hiking snob, and myself do enjoy hiking with family or friends on several occasions,  I must say that a noisy group of twenty or so people does have the effect of lessening the enjoyment. I found a spot towards the side to rest and have a snack and then roamed around the exposed ledges taking a bunch of photographs. Having resolved to leave by noon, I actually ended up lingering a few minutes beyond, and then headed down eager to start the next leg of my planned hike. En route, I met more hikers on their way up....an indication that this summit is not as neglected as I had thought while I was on my way up.  Walking past the previously mentioned uprooted stump, I was thwarted in my hope of trying to get a better photograph since the snake was gone.

Around 12:40 p.m. or so, I was at the intersection with the red-blazed Breakneck Bypass trail and turned left onto it. After a brief ascent, I stopped at a slightly off-trail ledge which afforded a nice view of the Sugarloaf summit (including the gnarled tree).  I continued further, and after steadily climbing, the trail merges with the white-blazed Breakneck Ridge Trail. Just before this, a viewpoint revealed a great view of the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge and Dennings Point. Continuing further, and turning left (and eastwards) on the white-blazed trail, I headed on, and after a level stretch, the trail climbed a bit again to reveal an incredible 360 degree panoramic viewpoint with views of Sugarloaf Mountain, Mt Taurus, North and South Beacon, Newburgh-Beacon Bridge, Dennings Point, etc.  The trail then starts descending, and in a short while, there is an exposed ledge to the right of the trail from where one can make out a lake with some buildings along it. I believe this was Lake Surprise.  Just after this the trail intersects with the blue-blazed Notch trail. I turned right onto the Notch, and continued on it as it steadily lost elevation and eventually became almost level. Somewhere along this stretch, I saw another rattlesnake slither away hurriedly...my second spotting in a day. Around this point, the Notch turns right and I followed it past another set of ruins from the Cornish estate. A little further, the trail intersects with the red-blazed Brook trail. I switched onto that briefly, crossing the Breakneck Brook and then continuing along it, till the intersection with the blue-blazed Cornish trail onto which I turned left. It was a few minutes past 3:00 p.m. at this time.

 I walked on the Cornish the rest of the way till I got to the gate opening onto route 9D which I had assumed to be the Cornish trailhead on previous hikes, though the map indicates otherwise. I noticed this time that the blue blazes actually continue parallel to Route 9D, and not wanting to walk along with speeding cars under a hot summer sun, I followed the blazes along a very narrow (and at places very muddy) trail with dense undergrowth on both sides, all the while imagining that rattlesnakes would crawl out from the sides onto the narrow trail where it would be hard to avoid them :) In a few minutes, I was at the trailhead which is just a few paces from the Washburn trailhead. Emerging onto Route 9D, I crossed the road, turned onto Fair Street, and hurried back towards Cold Spring station, making it there just in time to catch the 4 p.m. back to GCT.

Overall, this hiking excursion involved approximately 9-10 miles of walking and ~2000 ft of cumulative elevation gain (with a corresponding elevation loss).

Relevant Map: NY-NJTC Trail Map #102

A crowd of hikers descends on the area from the morning "Hikers' Express" (the Breakneck Ridge stop is the result of
NYNJTC efforts and the "station" is just a wooden platform)

The trailhead for Wilkinson Memorial Trail is just opposite the Breakneck Ridge train station

View from Sugarloaf Mountain summit
(Storm King and Schunemunk Mountains can be seen)
An artistically gnarled dead tree trunk adorns Sugarloaf's summit

A (live) tree perched on the what at least seemed the highest point on the summit


Bannerman's ruined castle (taken with a telephoto lens)

The view upriver
(Schunemunk's ridgeline is distinctly visible; also seen is Newburgh)


This spot just before the Sugarloaf summit is the only one
where some clambering is needed; however there are enough
hand and foot holds to not make it very difficult. I took this photo
on my way down.
From an intermediate viewpoint just off the Breakneck Bypass
trail, I could make out the gnarled tree trunks and the live tree on nearby
Sugarloaf's summit (this photo was taken using a telephoto lens).

Newburgh-Beacon Bridge and Dennings Point (from a viewpoint on the Breakneck Ridge Trail)

One of the views from a 360 degree panoramic viewpoint on the
Breakneck Ridge trail.  It was also relatively secluded since the
crowds of Breakneck hikers typically descend via the Breakneck Bypass
and thus miss this spot which lies beyond that intersection!

A river view from aforementioned viewpoint

The radio towers on North Beacon and the fire tower on South Beacon
(as seen from aforementioned viewpoint)

Lake Surprise?
(From a ledge near the intersection of the Breakneck Ridge and Notch trails)

1 comment:

  1. Hello!

    Great photos and hike description! My name is Jeremy and I am the cartographer for the NY-NJ Trail Conference. I'm currently working on a trail signage project and would like to ask about the possibility of using some of your outstanding photos on the signs. If you could contact me at your earliest convenience (apgar@nynjtc.org), it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

    ~Jeremy

    ReplyDelete